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Why a basic stripper isn’t enough
Precision
Basic Stripper
Frequently Asked Questions
It has notched jaws – a separate sized opening for each gauge from 22 to 10 AWG. Put the wire in the notch that matches it, squeeze, pull. The notch is what does the work.
Because the notch is cut to the size of the conductor, the blades physically cannot close onto the copper. The result is the same every single time, whoever is holding it and however hard they squeeze – it is mechanical, not a matter of feel.
Not if you use the notch that matches the wire. That is exactly what the sizing is for: the jaws stop at the insulation and leave the conductor whole, so the wire keeps its full strength and its full current capacity.
22 to 10 AWG – which covers essentially all automotive and household wiring, from small signal wire up to heavier power runs.
Roughly, yes – and it is usually printed along the jacket. The notches are marked, so you match the number on the wire to the number on the tool. If the print has worn off, start one size larger and step down until it strips clean.
Both, as long as you pick the notch that matches the conductor. Stranded wire is the one that suffers most from a bad strip, because losing a few strands quietly costs you capacity you never get back.
Yes, and it is the single most common way DIY wiring fails. Running a blade round the jacket almost always scores the copper, and the wire then breaks at that nick months later, somewhere inside a loom where you will never find it.
This one if you want a dedicated stripper that does one job precisely and costs less. The 8-in-1 if you would rather carry one tool that also crimps, cuts, shears screws and detects live wires. Plenty of people own both and keep this one in the car.
3–5 business days in the USA, and 7–10 business days everywhere else.
If you are not completely satisfied, we will make it right. Every SolderStick product is covered by a 30-day money-back guarantee, and our support team is there if you need them.